he turn of the 20th century marked the emergence of the wristwatch as a commercial product. While women embraced the new accessory, men and industry insiders were sceptical.

Why wear a watch on your arm, exposing it to shocks and the vagaries of the weather, when you can rely on a tried and tested, well-protected pocket watch? Consequently, the pocket watch maintained its market dominance, shaping the marketing strategies of manufacturers who continued to prioritise it.

1905: In this 1905 Longines ad, the pocket watch is the undisputed star. Its popularity remains unchallenged (for now).

It wasn’t until the 1910s that the focus began to shift, primarily as a result of the outbreak of World War I. The coordination of wartime operations required practical, durable and water-resistant timepieces. To meet these novel demands, manufacturers developed and patented innovative solutions. Newspaper advertisements showcased features such as waterproof cases, fixed or removable metal grids to protect the glass, and luminescent indices and hands for reading the time in the dark. These ads captured the pressing needs and concerns of the era.

1908: In the first decade of the 20th century, wristwatches were primarily a feminine accessory, as demonstrated by this Omega timepiece featuring an innovative extendible bracelet.

The Swiss industry dominated the international market, supplying timepieces to numerous armies worldwide. However, the United States also produced models designed to withstand harsh environments. In 1919, the trade press published the first advertisement linking a wristwatch to a celebrated figure and achievement: aviator Roland Rohlfs and his altitude record.

1910: Patented in Germany, this elastic clasp can be attached to a strap or metal bracelet, making it possible to convert a small pocket watch into a wristwatch – the ideal accessory for style-conscious women (Béguelin-Piaget).

1914: An early Swiss specialist in water-resistant cases was François Borgel. Two pocket models and one wristwatch are showcased in this ad. The wristwatch gained the trust of soldiers on the front lines of the Great War.

1916: Wartime demands inspire another innovation: a removable metal grid to minimise the risk of glass breakage (Idéal).

1919: From the trenches to aviation records: the waterproof Depollier model, adopted by the American military during the war’s final months, accompanied pilot Roland Rohlfs on his 10,000-metre altitude ascent. This advertisement devotes extensive text to its features – an unusual approach in an age dominated by image-rich ads.