he first half of the decade was impacted by the war. The demand for precision instruments from all countries in conflict provided a significant boost to the Swiss watchmaking industry, which, despite supply challenges, accounted for one-third of national exports and 86% of the global market. Manufacturing focused on products suitable for military use, and advertising reflected this, while emphasising that robustness and reliability were equally important in civilian life.

A growing awareness of the importance of effective communication emerged within the industry. In 1942, the newly-founded Revista Relojera in Argentina dedicated entire pages to the technical presentation of Swiss watches.

1941: Advertising cannot ignore current affairs. In Switzerland, a German invasion is feared and the army prepares the country’s defence. The image of officers synchronising their watches, chosen by Heuer in combination with a waterproof chronograph, speaks volumes.

From 1945 onwards, creativity and cutting-edge technology regained prominence in both industry and marketing. The first ultra-thin wristwatch (Audemars Piguet) and the first with an effective alarm (Vulcain) were introduced. Automatic watches became more appealing thanks to the digital date display (Rolex), the complete calendar (Movado), the power reserve indicator (Jaeger-LeCoultre, Zodiac), and winding by ball bearings (Eterna).

1942: The certificate of chronometric accuracy issued by official control agencies features in some advertisements, highlighting a sales argument to which manufacturers attach increasing importance (Election).

For women with above-average purchasing power, jewellery watches featuring small precious metal cases and stone-set bracelets were available. This new golden age extended to the advertising sphere, as companies invested a portion of their substantial profits in campaigns enriched by illustrations, some of which were masterpieces of graphic art.

1942: Omega’s communication caters to the demand for watches with enhanced waterproofing, showcasing its ‘hermetic’ models and a diver walking among fish. Published in neutral Argentina, the ad avoids any reference to potential military use.

1943: Another ad inspired by contemporary events. Rather than showcasing its products, Rolex chooses the title of a Christmas song and a text that acknowledges the suffering caused by the war while expressing hope for a better future.

1948: A constellation formed by a clock illuminates Apollo and the chariot of the Sun traversing the celestial vault. This is an example of the sophisticated illustrations that characterise some of the most striking post-war advertisements (Zenith).

1948: The ‘sex appeal’ of jewellery watches: the image is designed to capture the attention not only of women, but also of men who might purchase the item for their wives or girlfriends (Breitling).

1949: “The Cricket precision alarm watch manages your time, prevents forgetfulness, and frees your mind” – Vulcain loudly proclaims its innovative new feature.